ICYRA Sailing and Yachts

A luxury yacht is no small investment. Whether it’s to celebrate your retirement, reward yourself for a job well done, or move up from your clunky old boat, you’re probably expecting to spend as much as you would for a house, or at least get fairly close. So it pays to take those few extra hours to look at your options, shop around, and make sure you’re getting the best deal.

There’s no “perfect yacht” that will satisfy every boater, as we all have our personal requirements. Do you want speed and power, or are you more after comfort and style? Is it your first marine craft or are you fairly knowledgeable? What size are you looking for? Those are just some of the questions worth thinking of. Start by doing a quick Google search and learning about what’s available and for how much. This will give you a good idea of what to expect, as well as how much to set aside.

Next, try visiting a local boat show. Learning online is great, but it’s all theoretical—nothing really beats seeing a boat in the flesh. It’ll also give you the chance to talk to experts and get firsthand information on what’s a good investment and what’s a waste of money. If you’re lucky, you can even get some of them to invite you on board and give you a tour. If there aren’t any boat shows nearby, visit the closest marina and try to find someone to give you advice, whether it’s the manager or one of the boat owners.

When you’re shopping around, make sure to look beyond the size and features and ask about after-sales services. Yacht maintenance is no small business, and owners often shell out much more than they expect on repairs and upkeep. Docking options should also be considered—how good are the marinas in your area? While you’re checking out different sellers, take the opportunity to ask about these services and make it part of your decision.

At the end of the day, it’s you who will choose your own boat (that’s the beauty of it), but you owe it to yourself to make sure it’s a good one. Proper research can let you in on the best brands, the best price to quality ratios, and the best services. Many of the factors seem trivial when it’s all on paper, but you’ll thank yourself for it later on.

Boaters from twenty years ago generally had two options when it came to motors: inboard and outboard. And besides boat length and power requirements, there really wasn’t much to consider. Today’s boaters have it a little harder—other boat types, and subsequently more motor types, have come into the market and made engine choice a more serious affair. If you’re buying your first boat motor or want to know more about your options, here’s a quick guide to help you out.

The inboard and outboard distinction has remained generally the same. Outboard motors are more popular because of their wider size range and better compatibility with small watercraft. They carry more power for their size than inboard motors, and new models tend to operate fairly quietly. Most models can be installed on the transom, where they allow for better steering and maneuvering. Make sure to check for fuel requirements, as there tends to be some variety between brands and models.

If your boat is longer than 26 feet, an inboard motor may be a better choice. Their main advantage is better weight distribution; since they are installed at the center of the boat instead of one end, they won’t weigh down one side. Most inboard motors are attached by their shaft to the propeller, making for easy turns and allowing you to stay on track on straight paths. The catch is that they’re harder to access for cleaning and maintenance, although for most boaters this is a minor problem.

A third type, known as the stern drive motor, is considered a mix of the two; they are sometimes called inboard-outboard motors. They are attached to the propeller like inboard motors, but also come with a small unit that goes onto the transom. This allows the boater to switch the power up and down the boat, which is useful for cruising and sailing farther from the shore. Older stern drive motors sacrificed power for versatility, but newer models have caught up.

Environmentally conscious boaters often go for a jet drive motor. Unlike other motor types, it doesn’t come with propellers, so it operates quietly and doesn’t use up as much fuel. This also makes them easier to maintain and less harmful to creatures in the water (including humans). They are usually installed inboard, so the same access issues may turn up. Also, they usually work best in deeper waters, so you might want to stick to traditional motors if you’re more into river boating.

An electric motor is typically one of a sailor’s first big investments, especially when they start taking to the high seas a little more regularly. But while there’s no shortage of options in the market, there’s a whole world of bad choices. Not all electric motors are made alike, and if you want the most out of your money, it pays to do your research.

After compatibility, a solid build and reliable performance should be on top of your list. Electric motors can face some pretty tough conditions—water, salt, dirt, drastic temperature changes—and you want yours to stand up to all that. Ten years ago this would have meant sacrificing lightness for durability. This is no longer the case; some of the sturdiest electric boat motors in the market are also among the lightest. They’re understandably more expensive, but any veteran will tell you that a light motor is well worth the money.

But why does weight matter? Sailing boats are necessarily light, and any weight you put on it will have a bearing on its speed and performance. A heavy electric motor will weigh it down and affect not just your speed, but also your balance. Unless you’re fairly experienced, you may find yourself struggling to keep your boat flat and stay on track.

Motors also have a lot to do with your boat’s agility and maneuverability. If you plan on going fast, you’ll want a high-performance motor that can provide maximum power and still perform reliably the next day. If you’re more into long-distance sailing and cruising, look into models designed for long running times. These motors are usually also suited to extreme weather conditions. River boating, which is a lot calmer, can usually take a smaller, less powerful and less solid motor.

Finally, electric motors can be designed for saltwater and freshwater. Saltwater motors are of course much sturdier, and can be used safely in freshwater so it’s a much more practical investment. One way to check, if it’s not clearly marked, is to look at the exterior layers. On a good motor, there are several protective layers designed to prevent wear from exposure to saltwater, as well as an anti-rust treatment. These layers won’t replace manual maintenance, which means you still have to clean and winterize as with any other motor. But they’ll make the job a lot easier and add years to the life of your motor.

One of the first things you’ll need in competitive sailing is a trapeze harness, a piece of clothing that keeps you anchored to the trapeze and helps you stay in an optimal position. In a race, its main purpose is allowing you to keep the boat flat, so you can make the most of the wind and maintain a good speed. The physics is simple: the more weight you can transfer to the side, the more your boat can follow the wind and sail smoothly through the water.

There are different trapeze harness types to choose from, with a model for just about any price range. The simplest kind is the half harness, which is meant to be worn on the hips and thighs. A heavy hook latches onto a trapeze wire linked to the mast, keeping you in place. The advantage of a half trapeze harness is that it’s easy to put on and take off, and will give you pretty good control if you’re occasionally out on the wire and leaning outwards.

If you expect to do that more often, however, you may want a full harness, which includes thick shoulder straps and more coverage over the thighs. The straps offer added back support and make it easier to lean over the boat, allowing you to keep your balance. These are great for really fast speeds, but they’re also a lot more comfortable if you plan on long hours of sailing. The catch is that it’s heavier, takes longer to put on, and obviously more expensive—but well worth all that if you’re a serious boater.

Safety should be on top of your list when you’re looking for a trapeze harness. The hook is an important factor; you want to be able to snap it off easily in case your boat capsizes and you need to get out fast. A good harness will have a safety release that unhooks in a second but won’t get undone by accident. Make sure to test the hook at the shop and see that it’s reasonably accessible—you don’t want to be fumbling around when every second matters!

Finally, you’ll want to find something that’s comfortable. It’s a given that some comfort will be sacrificed for safety and efficiency, but today’s manufacturers have found ways to minimize that. Older harnesses tend to have little padding and will dig into your hips. Look for a newer model with ample padding and thick straps, so you can comfortably hang off the boat and step into the water when needed. A good harness won’t be cheap, but when you’ve invested in a good boat and other gear, it makes sense to pay a little bit more for comfort and safety.

To an avid sailor, the things that make sailing what it is—controlling speeds, reading the water, following the wind—has little to do with the temperature. That’s why the most enthusiastic of us will take to the waters even in the winter, when other sailors are waiting it out in front of a fire. Some would say that other than having to dress warmly, winter sailing is no different from sailing any other season. But there are definitely some differences, and if you’re planning on winter sailing for the first time, it may help to be prepared.

First, you need to know your limits. Even the best sailors won’t go out when it’s too cold or too windy. The general rule is that you don’t go out when it’s less than -10 degrees Celsius (15 degrees Fahrenheit) and the wind is faster than 15 knots. Any colder and windier and the spray will be too strong and cold to put up with. Of course, it also depends on your tolerance; if you and your crew are used to colder weather, you can adjust your rule accordingly. And in all cases, you don’t want to go too far from the shore in case things go bad and you find yourself in a lifeboat.

Next, there’s your winter gear. In most cases you can wear whatever you would for a long walk around the neighborhood, with maybe an added windproof layer if the wind is strong. The problem with this is that winter clothing tends to limit movement, and with the addition of a life jacket, you won’t be making those lightning-fast maneuvers. You’ll also want to avoid any outerwear with pieces that can come off and get caught; if possible, trade your wool hats and gloves for neoprene or leather. Gloves are especially tricky because you always trade dexterity for warmth; your best bet is to take the gloves off and tie all your knots fast.

All this points to one fact: winter sailing is always slower and gentler than it is in the summer. You won’t be cruising at championship speeds and there won’t be the thrill of seeing and interacting with other boats (chances are you’ll be the only sail in the water on a given day). But for all its other perks, winter sailing is worth the challenge: you get a rare and often scenic view of the water and surrounding land, and the empty harbor makes it one of the most peaceful times to go out for a spin.