Some people insist on doing the cleaning themselves to save money and make sure the job is done their way. But for most of us, it’s just too time-consuming and it’s a lot simpler to leave it to the pros. And for the most part, getting a professional cleaning is more worth your money, and not just because it’s convenient. For instance, cleaning services provide skilled divers to clean out hard-to-reach parts of your hull while it’s safely on the water, saving you considerable time and effort. They also have specialized tools that tackle built-up dirt and deposits that DIY cleaning cannot.

Professional cleaners can also inspect your boat for damage and potential problems while they’re at it. A good company provides its divers with training in problem detection and corrosion control, so they can draw your attention to issues before they cause major damage. If you’re already paying for a similar service, you can save money by getting it as part of a hull-cleaning package—and if you choose the right company, the inspection will be just as thorough.

Another reason to opt for professional cleaning is environmental protection. Household or store-bought hull cleaning products aren’t always safe for the waters; some contain harmful chemicals that can affect water quality and permanently damage local marine life. Cleaning companies with a strong environmental thrust use only water-friendly products that nonetheless do the job. Often, these products will also be gentler to your hull paint and finish, unlike commercial products that can wear off these layers after just a few cleanings. Not all cleaning companies will be eco-friendly, of course, so this will require some research on your part.

How often you get your hull cleaned depends on how often you take it out and what conditions it’s normally exposed to. What’s important, however, is that you get it done at regular intervals, so that slime and attaching organisms don’t have time to build up over time. It can be a drag, but the difference in fuel costs, performance, and overall life of your boat is well worth the trouble.

They say if you buy only one thing for your boat, it should be a compass—when all else fails, you want to at least find your way to land. You’re probably familiar with two types, magnetic and electronic. Many boaters are skeptical of the latter and swear by magnetic pointing, a technology that’s worked for decades. But electronic compasses have improved considerably since their early days, and if you buy from an established manufacturer, there’s really not much of a difference. What you should look for is size and readability: you want something that you can read in any condition. As long as it can be mounted, bigger is usually better when it comes to compasses.

Next, you’ll want a depth finder to help you scope out shallow spots. This will help you avoid getting stuck and damaging your boat, especially in areas where shallow waters can be deceiving. More importantly, it’ll keep you from hitting the seabed and damaging the structures, something that many governments are strict about. Choose one with a wide field of view or at least two field of view settings. Many GPS units have depth finders built in, so this can be a good investment if you’re often sailing in unfamiliar waters—just make sure no efficiency is sacrificed for the convenience.

You’ll also need a good, clear VHF radio for communicating with other boats and calling for help when you need it. Today’s cell phones can do the job just fine, but a radio is your backup for when there are no cell towers in range. VHF signals are monitored by the Coast Guard, unlike cell phone signals, so it’s a great security tool. You can increase your signal by installing an antenna on-board. You can choose between a mounted or a hand-held unit—the latter is often seen in older models, but they will work just fine for most situations.

For the views: If you like a good panoramic view, you’ll probably be attracted to pristine waters close to the mountains and lush greenery. Fortunately there are a lot of them around—most marinas offer at least a passable view. But for something really breathtaking, try traveling to Sardinia, off the coast of Italy, for a dip in Porto Cervo. The seaside resort and marina offers a picture-perfect view of the Mediterranean almost year-round, with unforgettable sunsets and excellent seafood to boot. Yas Marinain in Abu Dhabi and Port Hercule in Monaco are close runner-ups.

For tourism: Sight-seeing and restaurant-hopping are part of a good sailing holiday. Luxury marinas tend to attract good tourism infrastructure, so you’ll have a lot of choice no matter what you’re looking for. Capri, another Italian island, is a good choice for nature and culture enthusiasts. Among the dozens of sites to visit are the Blue Grotto, a world-famous sea cave; Monte Solaro, the highest peak on the island and home to unique rock formations and a variety of birds; and the Casa Rossa (Pink House), a mixture of architectural styles that’s sure to catch the eye of art appreciators. St-Tropez in Côte d’Azur, France is also a popular choice; its landscapes and architecture have been depicted by dozens of artists including Renoir, Matisse, and Cézanne.

For facilities: Some of us like to stay practical and choose spots where it’s safest or most comfortable. If that sounds like you, you’re probably after the best docking facilities and maintenance services. These marinas are especially ideal for seafaring vessels, which face a harsher dose of the elements. Port de Cannes in Côte d’Azur tops the list of most avid boaters, with its high focus on environmental protection and vessel security. Port de Gustavia in Guadeloupe is also known for efficient management and top-rated service. All this may cost you a premium, but arriving in low seasons can help you get discounts.

Alternative lighting options came about as people started seeking less power-hungry lighting solutions. Light bulbs tend to eat up energy, and with electricity costs going up, it was getting expensive to have them on board. LED lights use a fraction of the energy, last much longer, and have been used in households and consumer electronics for several years. The first LED lights were not as bright or high-powered, but the technology has improved and today’s units are just as good as daylight fluorescent lamps. They were an obvious choice for other applications, including boat lighting—except that they were a lot more expensive.

LED lighting is more expensive because the bulbs themselves cost more to produce. The raw materials are harder to get, and the designs don’t usually lend themselves well to large-scale production. All this means that the higher costs are passed down to consumers. You can expect to pay twice as much, or sometimes more, for an LED unit compared to a light bulb or fluorescent lamp. Installing them on your boat is another matter; on older vessels this may involve some rewiring or even rearranging some fixtures.

But the price is a one-time cost, and if you choose well, you can save enough in energy costs to offset the difference and even make a profit. Today’s LED lights are 90% more efficient than incandescent bulbs and last about twice as long, assuming regular use. Maintenance and energy costs can drop by almost 80% for most boat owners. Versatility is also another plus; you can use LED lighting for interior cabins, spreader lights, and pretty much any other part of the boat.

If you’ve had your old lighting system in place for years, the change may be a little hard to implement, especially when you’re on a budget. But studies and experience have both proven that LED lighting is well worth the trouble, regardless of what vessel you have and what you use it for. When it’s time to give your boat a makeover, a change in lighting is definitely worth considering.

Obviously, sailing clothes for boating holidays are either warm-weather or cold-weather. Things are made a little more complicated by the fact that you’ll be spending a lot of time on the water with the wind in your face; your clothes will have to keep you comfortable and stand up to these conditions as well. The first thing you need to look for is therefore sturdy construction—no cheap cotton or single-stitch seams. This may drive the costs up a little, but if longevity is on top of your list, it’s always money well spent.

For cold-weather sailing, look for waterproof clothing. You can expect to get battered by waves of cold water, and the worst thing is when the water gets under your coat and onto your skin. Your first two layers—usually a big coat and a sweater—should be waterproof. Follow this up with a warm shirt or pullover, preferably wool or fleece, to keep warm.  Wrap up in a pair of lightweight, waterproof boots and you should be good to go.

For warm weather, your main concern would be rain. It’s tempting to just pack all your cotton shirts and board shorts, but you’ll also need to prepare for less friendly skies. Pack a raincoat for rainy weather and a light jacket for cooler evenings. Also, the floor of your boat can get slippery when it rains, so make sure to wear boots with sturdy treads to prevent accidents. If you’re expecting very hot weather, a hat and a pair of sunglasses will also come in handy.

You don’t usually need a whole new wardrobe for every season. While it may pay to invest in a few key pieces (like a good coat with a lifetime warranty), most of it is just choosing the right pieces for the right climate. When you start sailing more regularly, you’ll find that you get a feel for what’s comfortable and what’s not without even checking the forecasts!

There’s no “perfect yacht” that will satisfy every boater, as we all have our personal requirements. Do you want speed and power, or are you more after comfort and style? Is it your first marine craft or are you fairly knowledgeable? What size are you looking for? Those are just some of the questions worth thinking of. Start by doing a quick Google search and learning about what’s available and for how much. This will give you a good idea of what to expect, as well as how much to set aside.

Next, try visiting a local boat show. Learning online is great, but it’s all theoretical—nothing really beats seeing a boat in the flesh. It’ll also give you the chance to talk to experts and get firsthand information on what’s a good investment and what’s a waste of money. If you’re lucky, you can even get some of them to invite you on board and give you a tour. If there aren’t any boat shows nearby, visit the closest marina and try to find someone to give you advice, whether it’s the manager or one of the boat owners.

When you’re shopping around, make sure to look beyond the size and features and ask about after-sales services. Yacht maintenance is no small business, and owners often shell out much more than they expect on repairs and upkeep. Docking options should also be considered—how good are the marinas in your area? While you’re checking out different sellers, take the opportunity to ask about these services and make it part of your decision.

At the end of the day, it’s you who will choose your own boat (that’s the beauty of it), but you owe it to yourself to make sure it’s a good one. Proper research can let you in on the best brands, the best price to quality ratios, and the best services. Many of the factors seem trivial when it’s all on paper, but you’ll thank yourself for it later on.

The inboard and outboard distinction has remained generally the same. Outboard motors are more popular because of their wider size range and better compatibility with small watercraft. They carry more power for their size than inboard motors, and new models tend to operate fairly quietly. Most models can be installed on the transom, where they allow for better steering and maneuvering. Make sure to check for fuel requirements, as there tends to be some variety between brands and models.

If your boat is longer than 26 feet, an inboard motor may be a better choice. Their main advantage is better weight distribution; since they are installed at the center of the boat instead of one end, they won’t weigh down one side. Most inboard motors are attached by their shaft to the propeller, making for easy turns and allowing you to stay on track on straight paths. The catch is that they’re harder to access for cleaning and maintenance, although for most boaters this is a minor problem.

A third type, known as the stern drive motor, is considered a mix of the two; they are sometimes called inboard-outboard motors. They are attached to the propeller like inboard motors, but also come with a small unit that goes onto the transom. This allows the boater to switch the power up and down the boat, which is useful for cruising and sailing farther from the shore. Older stern drive motors sacrificed power for versatility, but newer models have caught up.

Environmentally conscious boaters often go for a jet drive motor. Unlike other motor types, it doesn’t come with propellers, so it operates quietly and doesn’t use up as much fuel. This also makes them easier to maintain and less harmful to creatures in the water (including humans). They are usually installed inboard, so the same access issues may turn up. Also, they usually work best in deeper waters, so you might want to stick to traditional motors if you’re more into river boating.

After compatibility, a solid build and reliable performance should be on top of your list. Electric motors can face some pretty tough conditions—water, salt, dirt, drastic temperature changes—and you want yours to stand up to all that. Ten years ago this would have meant sacrificing lightness for durability. This is no longer the case; some of the sturdiest electric boat motors in the market are also among the lightest. They’re understandably more expensive, but any veteran will tell you that a light motor is well worth the money.

But why does weight matter? Sailing boats are necessarily light, and any weight you put on it will have a bearing on its speed and performance. A heavy electric motor will weigh it down and affect not just your speed, but also your balance. Unless you’re fairly experienced, you may find yourself struggling to keep your boat flat and stay on track.

Motors also have a lot to do with your boat’s agility and maneuverability. If you plan on going fast, you’ll want a high-performance motor that can provide maximum power and still perform reliably the next day. If you’re more into long-distance sailing and cruising, look into models designed for long running times. These motors are usually also suited to extreme weather conditions. River boating, which is a lot calmer, can usually take a smaller, less powerful and less solid motor.

Finally, electric motors can be designed for saltwater and freshwater. Saltwater motors are of course much sturdier, and can be used safely in freshwater so it’s a much more practical investment. One way to check, if it’s not clearly marked, is to look at the exterior layers. On a good motor, there are several protective layers designed to prevent wear from exposure to saltwater, as well as an anti-rust treatment. These layers won’t replace manual maintenance, which means you still have to clean and winterize as with any other motor. But they’ll make the job a lot easier and add years to the life of your motor.

There are different trapeze harness types to choose from, with a model for just about any price range. The simplest kind is the half harness, which is meant to be worn on the hips and thighs. A heavy hook latches onto a trapeze wire linked to the mast, keeping you in place. The advantage of a half trapeze harness is that it’s easy to put on and take off, and will give you pretty good control if you’re occasionally out on the wire and leaning outwards.

If you expect to do that more often, however, you may want a full harness, which includes thick shoulder straps and more coverage over the thighs. The straps offer added back support and make it easier to lean over the boat, allowing you to keep your balance. These are great for really fast speeds, but they’re also a lot more comfortable if you plan on long hours of sailing. The catch is that it’s heavier, takes longer to put on, and obviously more expensive—but well worth all that if you’re a serious boater.

Safety should be on top of your list when you’re looking for a trapeze harness. The hook is an important factor; you want to be able to snap it off easily in case your boat capsizes and you need to get out fast. A good harness will have a safety release that unhooks in a second but won’t get undone by accident. Make sure to test the hook at the shop and see that it’s reasonably accessible—you don’t want to be fumbling around when every second matters!

Finally, you’ll want to find something that’s comfortable. It’s a given that some comfort will be sacrificed for safety and efficiency, but today’s manufacturers have found ways to minimize that. Older harnesses tend to have little padding and will dig into your hips. Look for a newer model with ample padding and thick straps, so you can comfortably hang off the boat and step into the water when needed. A good harness won’t be cheap, but when you’ve invested in a good boat and other gear, it makes sense to pay a little bit more for comfort and safety.

First, you need to know your limits. Even the best sailors won’t go out when it’s too cold or too windy. The general rule is that you don’t go out when it’s less than -10 degrees Celsius (15 degrees Fahrenheit) and the wind is faster than 15 knots. Any colder and windier and the spray will be too strong and cold to put up with. Of course, it also depends on your tolerance; if you and your crew are used to colder weather, you can adjust your rule accordingly. And in all cases, you don’t want to go too far from the shore in case things go bad and you find yourself in a lifeboat.

Next, there’s your winter gear. In most cases you can wear whatever you would for a long walk around the neighborhood, with maybe an added windproof layer if the wind is strong. The problem with this is that winter clothing tends to limit movement, and with the addition of a life jacket, you won’t be making those lightning-fast maneuvers. You’ll also want to avoid any outerwear with pieces that can come off and get caught; if possible, trade your wool hats and gloves for neoprene or leather. Gloves are especially tricky because you always trade dexterity for warmth; your best bet is to take the gloves off and tie all your knots fast.

All this points to one fact: winter sailing is always slower and gentler than it is in the summer. You won’t be cruising at championship speeds and there won’t be the thrill of seeing and interacting with other boats (chances are you’ll be the only sail in the water on a given day). But for all its other perks, winter sailing is worth the challenge: you get a rare and often scenic view of the water and surrounding land, and the empty harbor makes it one of the most peaceful times to go out for a spin.