Archive for the ‘Sailboat Maintenance’ Category
Cleaning, especially hull cleaning, is hardly the highlight of boat ownership. But like going to the dentist, it needs to be done if you want to sail smoothly and improve your vessel’s shelf life. A poorly maintained hull can cause friction on the water and slow you down, and in the long run will cause greater damage that’s impossible (or extremely expensive) to repair.
Some people insist on doing the cleaning themselves to save money and make sure the job is done their way. But for most of us, it’s just too time-consuming and it’s a lot simpler to leave it to the pros. And for the most part, getting a professional cleaning is more worth your money, and not just because it’s convenient. For instance, cleaning services provide skilled divers to clean out hard-to-reach parts of your hull while it’s safely on the water, saving you considerable time and effort. They also have specialized tools that tackle built-up dirt and deposits that DIY cleaning cannot.
Professional cleaners can also inspect your boat for damage and potential problems while they’re at it. A good company provides its divers with training in problem detection and corrosion control, so they can draw your attention to issues before they cause major damage. If you’re already paying for a similar service, you can save money by getting it as part of a hull-cleaning package—and if you choose the right company, the inspection will be just as thorough.
Another reason to opt for professional cleaning is environmental protection. Household or store-bought hull cleaning products aren’t always safe for the waters; some contain harmful chemicals that can affect water quality and permanently damage local marine life. Cleaning companies with a strong environmental thrust use only water-friendly products that nonetheless do the job. Often, these products will also be gentler to your hull paint and finish, unlike commercial products that can wear off these layers after just a few cleanings. Not all cleaning companies will be eco-friendly, of course, so this will require some research on your part.
How often you get your hull cleaned depends on how often you take it out and what conditions it’s normally exposed to. What’s important, however, is that you get it done at regular intervals, so that slime and attaching organisms don’t have time to build up over time. It can be a drag, but the difference in fuel costs, performance, and overall life of your boat is well worth the trouble.
Boat lighting isn’t always the first thing people consider when making maintenance decisions for their craft, but these days it’s a hot topic. The issue is on LED lighting—a fairly new alternative to the tried and tested light bulb that promises lower running costs, longer life, and better efficiency. Not all boaters are convinced, though. So what’s the real deal on LED boat lighting?
Alternative lighting options came about as people started seeking less power-hungry lighting solutions. Light bulbs tend to eat up energy, and with electricity costs going up, it was getting expensive to have them on board. LED lights use a fraction of the energy, last much longer, and have been used in households and consumer electronics for several years. The first LED lights were not as bright or high-powered, but the technology has improved and today’s units are just as good as daylight fluorescent lamps. They were an obvious choice for other applications, including boat lighting—except that they were a lot more expensive.
LED lighting is more expensive because the bulbs themselves cost more to produce. The raw materials are harder to get, and the designs don’t usually lend themselves well to large-scale production. All this means that the higher costs are passed down to consumers. You can expect to pay twice as much, or sometimes more, for an LED unit compared to a light bulb or fluorescent lamp. Installing them on your boat is another matter; on older vessels this may involve some rewiring or even rearranging some fixtures.
But the price is a one-time cost, and if you choose well, you can save enough in energy costs to offset the difference and even make a profit. Today’s LED lights are 90% more efficient than incandescent bulbs and last about twice as long, assuming regular use. Maintenance and energy costs can drop by almost 80% for most boat owners. Versatility is also another plus; you can use LED lighting for interior cabins, spreader lights, and pretty much any other part of the boat.
If you’ve had your old lighting system in place for years, the change may be a little hard to implement, especially when you’re on a budget. But studies and experience have both proven that LED lighting is well worth the trouble, regardless of what vessel you have and what you use it for. When it’s time to give your boat a makeover, a change in lighting is definitely worth considering.
Boaters from twenty years ago generally had two options when it came to motors: inboard and outboard. And besides boat length and power requirements, there really wasn’t much to consider. Today’s boaters have it a little harder—other boat types, and subsequently more motor types, have come into the market and made engine choice a more serious affair. If you’re buying your first boat motor or want to know more about your options, here’s a quick guide to help you out.
The inboard and outboard distinction has remained generally the same. Outboard motors are more popular because of their wider size range and better compatibility with small watercraft. They carry more power for their size than inboard motors, and new models tend to operate fairly quietly. Most models can be installed on the transom, where they allow for better steering and maneuvering. Make sure to check for fuel requirements, as there tends to be some variety between brands and models.
If your boat is longer than 26 feet, an inboard motor may be a better choice. Their main advantage is better weight distribution; since they are installed at the center of the boat instead of one end, they won’t weigh down one side. Most inboard motors are attached by their shaft to the propeller, making for easy turns and allowing you to stay on track on straight paths. The catch is that they’re harder to access for cleaning and maintenance, although for most boaters this is a minor problem.
A third type, known as the stern drive motor, is considered a mix of the two; they are sometimes called inboard-outboard motors. They are attached to the propeller like inboard motors, but also come with a small unit that goes onto the transom. This allows the boater to switch the power up and down the boat, which is useful for cruising and sailing farther from the shore. Older stern drive motors sacrificed power for versatility, but newer models have caught up.
Environmentally conscious boaters often go for a jet drive motor. Unlike other motor types, it doesn’t come with propellers, so it operates quietly and doesn’t use up as much fuel. This also makes them easier to maintain and less harmful to creatures in the water (including humans). They are usually installed inboard, so the same access issues may turn up. Also, they usually work best in deeper waters, so you might want to stick to traditional motors if you’re more into river boating.
If there’s one maintenance duty that boat owners can agree on, it’s winterizing your boat. It’s a known fact that a properly winterized boat will last up to two times longer than one that isn’t. Many even insist that it’s the only maintenance you ever have to do—if you know how to winterize a boat properly, everything else will take you no more than a few hours over the course of the year.
Winterizing always starts with the tank, the part of the boat that’s most prone to damage. You want to be sure the tank is almost full, leaving just enough room for expansion. Otherwise condensation can form on the surface and cause corrosion. You also want to add fuel stabilizer. Stabilizers are made differently, so if you’re using a new brand, don’t assume the instructions will be the same.
Next, you want to protect your engine by changing the oil and filters. Make sure it’s warm while you’re changing; if necessary, run it for a while before starting. This helps it drain off any impurities in the oil. You also want to change the oil filters, and use propylene glycol-based antifreeze if your engine requires it. Take off the spark plugs and spray the inside of the carburetor and cylinders with fogging oil, this will keep oil from setting at the bottom and exposing the upper parts to the elements.
Outboard engines should be cleaned with soap and water, and the carburetor drained completely of fuel. Apply fogging oil to the cylinders, grease the propeller shaft and threads, and use lubricant or high-grade wax to polish the outside. While you’re there, it’s also a good time to check other parts for damage, particularly the hub and propeller.
If you’ll be storing your boat out of the water, remove the battery and keep it indoors for the season, making sure it’s fully charged. Otherwise, leave the battery on and functioning—the boat will need power to run the bilge pump if necessary. Remove any other electronic accessories—this will protect both from damage and from theft.
The most important part of winterizing is cleaning—you want everything to be clean and dry while it’s in storage. Dirt, barnacles, and other impurities will be very difficult to remove when you let them stick for an entire season. They can also contribute to rusting and deterioration. Once you’re sure the boat is clean and dry, tuck it away and it’ll be ready to go as soon as spring arrives.